American suits, (also known as sac suits), have been around as long as the United States itself. This style is the most versatile and can be used in any setting.
Traditional sac suit jackets have two buttons, medium sized lapels, and three outside pockets. Two of these pockets are flap pockets located towards the bottom of the jacket, while the third one is on the upper left breast of the suit. It can be worn with a pocket square or without.
Jackets are single vented with natural shoulders. Some people make the mistake of adding large shoulder pads on them, but it rarely makes them look better. I would only advise this for tall men with scrawny shoulders. However, even then the shoulders should only be enhanced to make the man’s shoulders look natural rather than thick and muscular. Too much padding is just too obvious, even to the casual observer.
Pants can invariably be flat front and do a great job showing off a mans natural leg shape. The bottom of the pants are un-cuffed and have a natural break at the dress shoes. Pants should angle back towards the legs at the ankles.
This style is great for men with large chests. The two button style will form a nice V shape around the pectorals and accentuate them. Flat front pants will conform to the leg and show off a mans overall fitness.
If you’re looking to only own one suit for your wardrobe I highly recommend making it this style. However, with full disclosure I must say that I am American and my opinion may be a bit biased.
American Suits – Examples
This is a picture of a typical Sac suit. As you can see it has two buttons and naturally sloping shoulders.
The pants are flat fronted and conform to the legs better than trousers with pleats.
American Suit Designers
Keep in mind that a suit made in America is not necessarily an American style suit. This is also true with suits made in Italy and in Great Britain.
Some classic examples of American made suits are Hart Schaffner Marx, Brooks Brothers, and Anderson Little.
Joseph Abboud and Hickey Freeman are also great examples, although they generally just fall under the same ownership as HSM now.
Tom James is a good example of a state side suit company that makes bespoke suits for U.S. citizens.
Many people would be surprised to hear this, but there are still many American suit companies.