The Fitted Suit

We all come in different shapes and sizes. When I was younger, I was always the perfect “off the peg” size, or so I was led to believe. I never owned a fitted suit. However, I suppose if I could go back in time and re-examine everything I ever bought, something would not be quite right with each and every item.

It’s always important, if you care for your appearance in any way, to ensure a perfect fit. Nowhere is this more important than when buying a men’s suit.

To ensure you are measured correctly, we have to start with your carriage. The way you stand can drastically alter the shape of the cut. Stand upright with your head straight. If your head leans forward it will raise the back of the jacket and leave an unsightly space at the back of your neck.

Have you ever wondered why a tailor grabs the front of your jacket and pulls it forward away from your body? Its to check the gap between your chest / stomach and the jacket. This should be three to four inches. Any more and the jacket will look too large. Any less and there will be little room for movement. You will risk popping a button or two.

The jacket must be the perfect length. This means the jacket bottom should be at the bottom of your bottom! If its any longer your legs will appear short. Too short is to be avoided at all times.

Jackets nearly always have loose flaps called vents. Some have one at the back, others have one at each side. If you are slim, opt for either no vent or a small rear vent. If you are especially rotund you should choose a jacket with two side vents. This will allow much more room for movement.

Trousers should always be measured to fit. Certainly if they are too tight around the rear you will be unable to bend over without causing quite a scene. Once measured and correctly fitted, try to stay the same size.

Trouser length should remain the same whether or not you have turn-ups (cuffs). Just touching the floor without your shoes completes the perfect fitted suit.